If you have a choice of two things and can't decide, take both.
-Gregory Corso
The Scenic Route, Part Two
I JUST WANT TO GET THERE. I just want to get out of this car and into the snazzy The Opal hotel and show these guys the town that is one of my favorite cities on the whole planet and wash the stink of Modesto’s Chateau Six off of me and maybe do some laundry because we are all beginning to smell like the dog who was clean when we left Arizona but has become funkier and funkier the longer she sits in the back of the car next to the cooler, poor patient thing. I chose The Opal because it is called The Opal and opal is my birth stone and I thought that was a good sign so I called them and sure enough they had a room not too expensive and AAA discount and fine with the dog and very friendly not snooty.
The freeway is wide open and nothing is holding us back and everyone is in a good mood and talking about the Golden Gate Bridge and when are we going to cross it? Somebody mentions Alcatraz and I’ve never done that and I’m totally into that idea since I’m traveling with a bunch of boys and I know they would really enjoy it. The last time I did SF was on the way down to Arizona with my son then four years old and we did a four year old’s tour of San Francisco which included the Pez Museum, yes, there is a Pez Museum just outside of town, a little hole in the wall very cool place that you really must go to next time you are there (Pez Museum), and then tons of time spent at the Wharf specifically Pier 39 which is designed to entertain children and take all of your money while you are just relieved that you have found something for the kids to do while you sit down and eat an overpriced crepe with nutella. Thank God for the Aquarium (Aquarium of the Bay) which doesn’t really cost all that much and you can walk through tunnels of jellyfish swimming all around you and above you and pet the rays and anemones and starfish in the tank upstairs if you aren’t too skittish and don’t mind getting wet just a little.
The outdated satellite navigation system which I want to update but it’s gonna cost ninety bucks so I keep putting it off does find the hotel but announces it just as we are passing it so we have to drive around the block a few times on a bunch of one way streets while it keeps telling us to turn the wrong direction according to the map. The weather is cool and sunny and just what the doctor ordered as they wait in the car while I check in and oh what a relief to press the brass buzzer and be let into a proper lobby with nice antique furniture and opulent carpeting and plush sofas and potted plants and for a moment I remember what refined means again and I think of my great aunt, the one with the beautiful crystal goblets that I inherited and still use to this day even though I only drink grape juice and not sherry in them. The dog is really gonna like this place. Let’s stay for two nights.
It doesn’t even bother me that they are putting us in one of the pet rooms in the back of the hotel because seriously this is still miles and miles nicer than any Chateau Six I’ve been in and anything would be better than Modesto and even this pet room in the back of the motel is pretty swank although we don’t have a good view but that’s okay because it will be quieter and the kids just watch TV anyway and we won’t be spending that much time in the room because we want to see the sights. The bathroom has mirrors all the way to the ceiling and it’s so old school it feels like we are in a time capsule and I could be Grace Kelly and he could be Cary Grant if Cary Grant had tattoos which I’m sure if he had he would have made them look very classy. I wonder if they would have made Grace Kelly stay in a pet room if she had brought her dog.
So I change out of my shorts and t-shirt and put on a nice dress from Anthropologie which looks more expensive than it was and some nice strappy black patent leather Tahari sandals to show off my cheap Vietnamese pedicure and a great big fancy ring that became mine only after everyone else in the family died. I swear if anyone ever tries to steal it from me I will give them a black eye with it first. Add to that some more jewelry that I collected when I worked for a fabulous jewelry designer in Seattle (Susan Goodwin Jewelry) because everyone knows it’s all in the accessories and everyone judges you by your shoes. All this to wander through the halls looking for the laundry room because I’ll be damned if I’m gonna pay someone three whole dollars to wash a single pair of my underpants but I don’t want anyone to know what a cheapskate I’ve become. Me. Grace Kelly. Cheapskate.
So anyway at some point we finally get everyone all cleaned up and head out to find the cable car which isn’t very far away but as we’re walking we realize we’re staying in a really nice hotel in a pretty bad part of town although it’s difficult to tell nowadays because it all looks pretty nasty. I swear back in the 80’s it was a much cleaner, sparklier, brightly colored place and I think it’s because that was before everything happened like the AIDS epidemic and the internet and the dot com bubble and the crash and the big earthquake. Even the Starbucks looks run down. But this town is known for rising up from the dust it just keeps going and people keep arriving to replace the ones who leave and they’ll never ever finish painting the Golden Gate Bridge.
Somehow we all manage to not fall off the cable car and the boys even get to ring the bell which is so cool and I don’t even think they realize what lucky little bastards they are just because everyone thinks they are so cute but after several days packed in a car with these wild animals their cuteness has temporarily worn off for us. And we’ve nixed the guided tour to Alcatraz because we’ve found out that it costs a small fortune and in June all that happens is the seagulls crap on your head and it smells bad and after all it’s just an old abandoned prison how depressing. We head straight for the Wharf and wade through the crowds to that Pier 39 where all the action is and look there’s a submarine and look there’s a museum of old arcade games (SF Mechanical Museum) and look there's Ghirardelli and look there’s a guy painted all silver pretending to be a robot and look let’s go to the Aquarium and two hours later we’re starving to death and he wants to get oysters on the half shell but I warn him that June has no R in it and the last time I ate raw oysters in a month with no R in it I ended up puking my head off in the restroom so let’s not. And I don’t want to argue about it I swear it’s not just an old wives’ tale it’s true and I don’t know why it is but I’m not gonna ignore the rule because I think somebody wiser than me figured it out a long time ago so get the clam chowder and the pan-fried oysters instead and we’ll share. I don’t care what the kids want they can have hamburgers or pasta forget about them they have no idea what they are missing just eat your food and enjoy the sunset. What do you mean you are cold I told you to bring a jacket we’re not in the desert anymore so you should wear layers!
The dog is back in the hotel room relaxing in luxury when we finally stumble in around 11pm because it’s a Sunday night and the cable cars run late but not frequently. Oh my gawd hurry up brush your teeth get to bed it’s super late and we need to get up tomorrow so we can do lots of stuff it’s our last day in San Francisco and we want to do it all. And as we lie there in our two separate queen sized beds surrounded by children and dog he announces to the room, “I guess I’m not really a city person” which of course I already knew because he lives out in the country on an acre of land with chickens and goats and I think to myself here I am again in my favorite city with somebody who doesn’t really want to be here, which was pretty much how it was a few years back when I asked my husband to take me to San Francisco for my 40th birthday and he hemmed and hawed so much I ended up having to plan the whole thing myself and found a cool cheap hotel close to Union Square on the internet whose main attraction was that the whole place was painted lavender but when we got there they put us in one of the upper floor rooms that hadn’t been redecorated yet so it just looked like any other grungy hotel and instead of asking for a better room he just went into a snit that lasted for the first three days of our trip and he didn’t snap out of it until he saw the huge parade of people marching through the city protesting the war. So I think to myself, “Why do I always come here with people who don’t like it?” and I try not to think about the 80’s when I came here with my first serious boyfriend and fell in love with the place and stayed in love with the place even after he broke up with me and I gently shove my boy over further because he is hogging the bed and I try to not think about what Grace Kelly and Cary Grant would be doing if they were staying in this room. There certainly would be no kids and no dog and just one bed and they would not be sleeping, that’s for sure.
And I realize I'm not really much of a city person anymore either. I miss my garden.
Stay tuned for Part Three…
Yeah. It was just like this.
Original material © 2011 betsylolafalanadowling.blogspot.com, Brain Fuzz & Betsy Dowling, All Rights Reserved
Grace Kelly & Cary Grant in Alfred Hitchcock's To Catch a Thief (1955): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0048728/
Thank you for reading my blog. Anybody need a writer?
Donations accepted through paypal at seattledowling@gmail.com.
I need to get that sat-nav updated.